TRAINING FOR LIFE

Although almost all training begins with teaching your dog to sit and lie down, training is much more than repeating simple rote exercises. Training is the process of teaching you how to communicate with your dog and teaching your dog to be compliant with you. When the two of you reach an understanding, wonderful things can happen.

Establish Leadership

Dogs need leaders. Just as children need parents and teachers to guide them towards adulthood, so do dogs. In a natural situation, as older dog would assume leadership but in our families, it's important that adults in the family assume a parental position and children be the older brothers and sisters. Not only will this help the dog grow up knowing what he needs to know, but it will also decrease disrespectful behaviors that dogs show their equals but would never do to a leader.

• The leader deserves respect. Your dog should never, ever turn his back on you when you're talking to him. Use a leash, even in the house, to make sure he pays attention to you when you're talking to him.  Practice the Watch Me command with really good treats to make sure he'll pay attention.

• Nor should your dog EVER use his mouth on you. That is very disrespectful!

• Have your dog work for you and for everything he wants. He can sit before he gets a treat; sit before his leash is hooked on to go for a walk; and sit before he goes through a doorway.

• Leaders always eat first. Have an apple or carrot before you feed your dog.

• Have your dog sit and then hand feed him a few bites of food before you give him his bowl. Pick up the bowl after 15 minutes if he's walked away from it. He'll eat better next time.

• You should also control all the games you play with your dog. If you're tired and your dog is pushy, have him lie down and stay. You play when you want to play. You should always end up with the ball or toy at the end of the game, too.

• Practice your training skills often and do not make excuses when your dog does not do something. He CAN do it; he just hasn't learned yet that he must.

• Respect doesn't mean you have to be serious all the time - have fun with your dog and your training!

Canine Communication

As your dog's parent, it's up to you to learn how to communicate with your dog. Sometimes this can be a challenge. Although dogs are very good at studying people and figuring out what is wanted, there is often a communication gap. Keep in mind that this is communication between two different species; although dogs live in our homes and are our companions, they were not born understanding English, Spanish, French, or any other human language. Nor were they born knowing human body language. Therefore, it's important that you learn as much as possible about canine communication so that you can understand and then teach your dog.

Body Language

Your dog has very complex body language. The movements, postures, and positions of his head, ears, eyes, mouth, tongue, tail, and entire body can convey a variety of meanings. For example, a dog standing tall yet relaxed, with upright ears, open mouth, relaxed tongue, and wagging tail, exudes confidence without aggression. Each body part, alone or with others, demonstrates what the dog is feeling.

Those feelings and postures can be enhanced by colorings or markings, especially on the face and tail. For example, when the eyes are outlined in black, with tan spots above the eyes, any movement of the eyes is exaggerated. This can make communicating with other dogs easier.

Dogs lacking some of these markings, such as an all-white or all-black dog, is somewhat at a disadvantage and could potentially be misunderstood. A tailless dog, whether naturally tailless or docked, loses all the communication that a tail provides. Misunderstandings in the dog's world could be minor, primarily because dogs use more than one body part to convey emotions, but occasionally a fight can ensue.

When you understand what your dog is trying to convey to you through his body language, you can communicate better with him yourself. You can tailor your training techniques when you see that he's worried or frustrated; you can give him more confidence when you see that he's insecure or afraid; and you can applaud his efforts when he's accomplished something and is proud of himself.

             *        If your dog is fearful, he will lower his body almost to the ground, with elbows and hocks bent. His tail will be lowered, as will his head and ears. The tip of the tail may be wagging slightly. He may lick his nose.
             *        Very fearful dogs?those so afraid that they may bite if cornered or pushed too hard?will also have a lowered body posture. The head and ears will be lowered, and the back of the lips will be pulled back, making the dog almost look like he's smiling. The eyes may look forward at the potential threat and then glance away. The tail will be tucked, even up against the belly, and will be still.
             *        A submissive but not necessarily fearful dog may roll over and bare his belly. The tail may be tucked and still (if worried) or tucked and wagging (if simply submissive). The eyes will look away.
             *        A dominant dog?one with the potential to take his dominance too far (with the possibility of a bite or fight)?will have all his body language moving forward. He will be on the tips of his toes leaning forward, with his head forward and his eyes staring hard at the object of his interest. The ears will be lifted and facing forward, and the tail will be up and wagging slowly or stiffly, or still. His hackles will probably be up.
             *        A confidant dog who is interested or alert but who has no need or desire to bite or fight will stand tall but also be relaxed. He will not be leaning forward. His head will be high but relaxed, with ears up and forward, and his hackles will be down. His tail will be wagging.
             *        An eager dog will not be standing still; he will dance, circle, or bounce up and down. His eyes will be toward you; his ears will be up and down, with openings toward you; and his tail will be wagging happily. He may lower his front end to bow, an invitation to play.

This is just a brief example of some body postures. Every breed and every individual dog has its own characteristics. For example, many herding breeds stare. This technique is used to control sheep and cattle, but herding dogs also learn to use it on their owners. Staring is usually an attention-getting device, because, when stared at, most owners respond, "What do you want?" and the dog could end up going for a walk or playing ball. In other breeds or dogs (such as guard and guardian dogs), a stare such as this could be a direct threat or the first step in aggression.

As you train your dog, you will learn to recognize other gestures. If your training is getting too serious, your dog may yawn at you. This is called a calming signal; your dog is basically saying, "Relax!" Some dogs, when they are getting frustrated or bored, will look away from you. This is the time to take a training break for a few minutes and rethink your training technique so that you can approach it from another angle. Watch your dog, get to know him, and use his means of communication to your advantage.

• If he looks away, he may feel pressured or you may be staring harshly at him. Or depending on his personality, he may be avoiding your commands.

• He may also turn away from you if you're angry or frustrated and he feels it.

• Your dog freezes in place; he may be afraid to do something. He may be worried or afraid to try something new. You may also be coming on too strong in your training approach.

You may be using some of your dog's body language without knowing it because some stances are very similar to our own. A person who is confidant yet not aggressive or pushy stands tall yet relaxed. A bully or pushy person who is trying to get his way stands tall and leans into people, invading personal space. A worrier pulls into himself, looks away without making eye contact, and uses small hand gestures.

But you can communicate more easily with your dog if you can copy some of your dog's body language as long as you are conveying the message you wish to share.

             *        If your dog is having a hard time with a new lesson, take some pressure off him. Instead of facing your dog straight on, turn so that you are at an angle, facing toward him and to the front. Make sure that your body language is relaxed, look at your dog (his paws, body, tail, face) without staring into his eyes, and smile. This conveys to him, "Hey, it's okay. No pressure!"
             *        If your dog is getting into trouble, especially when he understands that he's doing something your don't want him to do, stand tall, look him in the eye, and don't flinch. You have just conveyed your position as the dominant family member. Don't assume this position with a potentially aggressive dog, however; he will read it as a challenge!
             *        At the end of a training session, lift your hands high over your head, and then, with a big smile on your face, bring both hands down to your knees as you bend your body at the waist. You can also hop at the same time. You have just invited your dog to play!

Verbal Communication

Dogs are very verbal creatures. They whine, warble, howl, bark, and growl to communicate with one another and with us. Many of their sounds we don't even have words to describe; an Australian Shepherd male named Riker makes a sound that can only be mimicked: a "woo woo woo." Riker found that this sound made his owner laugh, and when she laughed, she paid attention to him. So he uses it!

Sounds vary from breed to breed and among individuals. The howl of northern breeds is quite different from the howl of a coonhound treeing a raccoon, and the alarm bark of a Chihuahua certainly differs from the alarm bark of a Rottweiler. But miscommunications among dogs are rare, even though many seem to be speaking different languages, primarily because verbal sounds are never used alone; they are always used in conjunction with body language.
Dog owners can use verbal communications in much the same way.

             *        When asking your dog to do something, use a normal speaking voice; do not change your normal, comfortable body language.
             *        When the dog does something you have asked him to do, praise him in a happy "ice cream" tone of voice. Your dog language should be relaxed. Move your hands and arms up and down a little: a small play-bow. Keep eye contact soft, allowing your eyes to move naturally.
             *        If you catch your dog in the act of doing something he knows is wrong (not afterward, but as it is happening), deepen your voice (growl) and turn to look directly at your dog.

The goal of all verbal communication is to teach your dog to listen to you?not just when he wants to, but whenever you direct anything toward him. You want him to listen, not just when giving him commands but also when you need to tell him something to keep him from getting into trouble or to keep him safe.

Socialization

Socialization is the process of introducing the puppy to the world he lives in. The primary ages of socialization are between twelve and sixteen WEEKS of age; however it should continue on into adulthood. If a puppy is not well socialized, it can not be made up for later; you cannot undo what wasn't done during those weeks.

The socialization should include positive (fun) introductions to people of all ages, sizes, shapes and ethnic backgrounds. Have people - one at a time - offer your puppy a treat and let them pet him. No rough stuff; no wrestling. Just calm gentle pets.

Your puppy also needs to see and hear cars, trucks, motorcycles, trash trucks, the mail man, the UPS man, and the meter reader. He should see laundry flapping in the wind, a trash bag being shook out, and flags flying. He can hear birds singing, a motorcycle roaring and a truck backfiring. Keep treats in your pocket so you can have them on hand as rewards for meeting, seeing and hearing all these people and things.

If your puppy is worried about something, do NOT comfort him. Instead, jolly him along, "What's that? Let's go see!" If you comfort him, he will assume he's being praised for being afraid; exactly the wrong message! 

Training Tools and Techniques

Training techniques and styles have changed over time, just as any profession changes. Thirty years ago, almost all trainers used chain slip collars (often called choke chains), and food rewards or lures were not used at all. Dogs were praised enthusiastically for good work, and collar corrections (some quite severe) were used to let the dog know when he made a mistake.
Today, food is commonly used as both a lure and a reward, and the variety of training tools is growing almost daily. The techniques used to train dogs are much more varied today, too.

Although this makes it difficult for dog owners to decide which technique to use, it's wonderful for the dogs themselves. The variety today provides a technique for dogs of every personality.
Some of the training tools being used today include:

             * Leashes: from 6- and 4-foot-long nylon, leather, or rope leashes used in obedience training to short traffic leads used while training off-leash work and many dog sports.
             * Buckle collar: This is the collar your dog should be wearing with his identification tag on it. Many dogs, especially once they understand what is being asked of them, need only this collar.
             * Chain and nylon slip collars: These collars have gotten a bad reputation because they are often misused. When used correctly, however, a slip collar should not hurt a dog. Instead, the snap of the collar should convey only enough force to get the dog's attention. These collars should never be pulled tight by the owner (which could choke the dog), and the dog should never be allowed to pull on the collar.
             * Head halters: There are several makes and styles of head halters, and they all work on basically the same premise: where the dog's head goes, the body will follow. As with any tool, these have been misused, too, and when misused (such as by yanking on the head halter with a leash, thereby jerking the dog's head), the dog can suffer neck and back injuries. However, when used correctly, with a gentle guiding motion and other training skills, this training tool can be very effective.
             * Prong collars: Although many people abhor these collars, it is primarily because of their look. However, the prongs are not sharp and do not dig into the dog's neck. Many expert trainers prefer this type of collar, especially for strong-willed dogs just beginning their training who have taken control of their owners. Most of these trainers emphasize that the prong is not necessarily for long-term use, but just to control the dog until the owner can teach him.
             * Food: Although thirty, and even twenty, years ago, food simply was not used in dog training, trainers today have found that food can be a powerful training tool. It is a strong motivator, lure, and reward. The size of the food used should be appropriate to your dog. Toy dogs can work for tiny pieces, even crumbs, while a giant dog needs something a little bigger. And of course, the dog must like the food being offered.
             * Toys: If your dog is not food motivated, you can use other things instead. Tennis balls are great for many dogs, as are toys with a squeaker inside, or for terriers, furry mice made as cat toys. Just make sure that the toy is safe before you use it as a training motivator.
             * Clickers: Clickers are small, handheld contraptions that, when pressed, make a clicking sound. Originally used with dolphins that could not be trained using a leash and collar, the click is used to mark good behavior. When the dog realizes that the click equals good, which equals a food treat, he understands and can learn. Although the clicker is an effective training tool, it requires precise timing to work well. In addition, some dogs and people simply do not like the sound, and for them, this tool will not work.
             * Your voice: As mentioned earlier in this chapter, your voice is the most important training tool you have. Your voice helps your dog pay attention to you, guides him, and rewards him.

There are other training tools, such as citronella collars for stopping barking, leashes that make a noise when the dog pulls, and harnesses that slow down dogs who pull when they go for a walk. Electronic collars are also gaining in popularity. Many of these tools, especially electronic collars, should be used only under the guidance of a trainer experienced in their use.

Training Techniques

Most trainers today use a much more positive method than those used many years ago. Trainers have found that the more compulsive training techniques, which were forceful ("You WILL do it!") and used leash corrections and a harsh verbal correction when the dog made a mistake, weren't much fun for dog or owner. The dogs usually disliked the training sessions and, as a result, were rarely compliant or cooperated out of fear. Of course, owners rarely enjoyed the training, either.
Today, there is a wide variety of training techniques, but the two most prevalent ones are:

             * Positive training. Many trainers use what is often referred to as purely positive training. No corrections at all are used, and the dog is helped to do the right thing and then rewarded for it. Most positive trainers use a clicker, and all use either food or other motivators, depending on the dog.

             * Balanced training. Balanced training uses techniques from both positive trainers and compulsive trainers. They feel the positive techniques can be powerful training tools and use them eagerly, but that dogs can also learn from making a mistake. Letting the dog know that he has made a mistake may range from withholding a treat and praise to giving a verbal correction or a snap and release of the leash.

No matter what techniques are used, almost all trainers agree that dogs need to be taught what to do rather than simply be corrected for bad behavior. When a dog knows what acceptable behavior is and is consistently rewarded for doing it, he no longer needs to do the "bad" behavior. For example, dogs jump on people out of excitement and to greet people face to face?a very natural behavior for dogs. They don't understand, however, that jumping on people ruins clothes and knocks people down. A dog can be corrected in any number of ways not to jump up, but if he is only corrected, he will continue to jump up because he doesn't know what to do to get the attention he wants. In addition, with the corrections, he will become more and more anxious.

However, if he is taught to sit and is greeted and petted in the sitting position, he no longer needs to jump up. The jumping will disappear.

Simple Skills for Successful Training

Dog training is not a mysterious skill known only to a few; most dog owners, with a little help, can become successful dog trainers. Here are some skills that will make your training easier:
             *        Know what you want your dog to do. Set both short-term and long-term goals.
             *        Find a technique that is comfortable for both you and your dog and then stick with it. Don't change techniques each time something doesn't work; you and your dog will both be confused.
             *        Give a command only once. If you repeat the command over and over, which one should he listen to? The first or the sixth?
             *        Show your dog exactly what you want him to do, help him do it, and reward him when he does it correctly.
             *        Timing is critical to success. Praise your dog as he does something right. If you use interruptions, let him know as he makes a mistake.
             *        Remember that any behavior that is consistently rewarded will be repeated.
             *        Praise or corrections after the fact are not effective and can confuse your dog.
             *        Consistency is important?in your training and in enforcing the rules you have established.
             *        Always finish training sessions on a high note. Have the dog do something well and then reward him for it.

Training is a learning process for both you and your puppy. Don't rush it; take your time and watch your dog. When he's confused, worried, or fearful, take a break and think about what you're doing. Why is your dog reacting the way he is? How can you communicate with him in a better way? When he does get it, don't be stingy with the praise!